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Author Topic: HELLO IS ANYONE STILL HERE??  (Read 480 times)

Offline Dirk1616

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Re: HELLO IS ANYONE STILL HERE??
« Reply #15 on: May 23, 2017, 03:19:14 AM »
If you look inside the tensioner, there is a check ball, if the tensioner is stuck together or came apart in 2 pieces exposing the spring, it's best to get a new one. They can let your chain skip a tooth or delay your timing enough to let the valves slap the cylinder, it's a very important little thing.
As for how it works, the check ball on the inside of the tensioner gets pushed in when oil pressure builds up in the motor, allowing oil inside of the tensioner to pressurize it. With the oil regulated by the oil pressure of the motor, it controls how tight your timing chain is and takes the slack out of it. For easy re-instillation take something small, like an allen wrench, or something of the sort, and push on the check ball while squeezing the tensioner together. Oil will come out and you'll find it'll be easy to squeezing it after that.
I would almost recommend taking it out and flushing any bad oil out of it if you had a nasty oil change, just to prevent premature failure on the tensioner's check ball, sometimes they get clogged up and don't work right.
2003 DS Baja         Riding at Bundy Hill and Silver Lake
Big Gun CDI, 11.5 JE Piston, Port/Polish, OMR Carb Mods,
Custom Mod End Cap, UNI Filter, More To Come?

Offline kevinpd1987

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Re: HELLO IS ANYONE STILL HERE??
« Reply #16 on: June 07, 2017, 08:52:49 PM »
Ok new question !! I have no clearance between my valves and cams both sides but the bike ran just before I took it apart .. And when I took my cam journal off it popped up from the valve springs about 1/4 inch !! And the shims already look like they are as small as they get without being smaller than the cup lip... Did my valves just break?? Lol I don't get it could they have stretched that much ?

Offline Dirk1616

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Re: HELLO IS ANYONE STILL HERE??
« Reply #17 on: June 08, 2017, 05:05:28 AM »
What's happening with the valves and how they get "tighter" with the cams, is the valve seats and the valve itself have wear on them from smacking each other constantly. Usually a concave groove on the valve and rounded valve seat will mean they are about done for. Wear makes the valve have to be pushed up higher, which makes it tighter with your cam.

Usually when your valves get really bad, you'll tend to lose compression because they will leak out air, you can do a leak down test for this. Or you can really notice when it becomes hard to cold start.

With what you have going on, you need a lot of clearance. A couple things you can do at this point with your situation. Either get new valves and have a valve job done, they'll clean up the seats to make them flat again (you may want to do this anyway). You'll have to reshim your clearances. OR you can lightly grind the tops of your valve stems to give you more room. Just don't take off too much, or your buckets will rest on the spring retainer and cause the valve to float until the bucket came down far enough to hit it. Then your keepers can come out, which means your valve could fall into the motor and if that happens, it's bye bye valve, piston, and cylinder! Just make sure the tops of the valve stems are as flat a possible. What I do to make sure they rest flat with the buckets is color the tops of the valve stem with a Red Sharpie, sit the bucket in place, spin it around a little, take it back out and see where the Red came off of the top of the valve. That will tell your where the high spots are and where it needs to be flatter. You can also do this if you don't have any shims or need just a touch more clearance.

If the valve seats are wore too much, you may have to get new valves and have to grind the tops of them to give you more clearance to be able to fit a shim in.
My opinion, just because I went through this last year. Get new valves and have a valve job done, MAKE SURE THEY REGRIND YOUR VALVE SEATS on the head. Then put it back together, check clearances, do what you have to do to get them in spec and you should be good to go.
« Last Edit: June 08, 2017, 05:08:25 AM by Dirk1616 »
2003 DS Baja         Riding at Bundy Hill and Silver Lake
Big Gun CDI, 11.5 JE Piston, Port/Polish, OMR Carb Mods,
Custom Mod End Cap, UNI Filter, More To Come?

Offline kevinpd1987

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Re: HELLO IS ANYONE STILL HERE??
« Reply #18 on: June 08, 2017, 09:55:20 AM »
Thank you ! I appreciate the reply ! And ya I think I'm going to go the expensive route and save my motor because I love the heavy pig ! You recommend any type of valve /spring combo?

Offline Dirk1616

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Re: HELLO IS ANYONE STILL HERE??
« Reply #19 on: June 08, 2017, 12:17:45 PM »
I just have the stock springs and valves. If you look for Kibblewhites, they are a little cheaper than stock I think, but they may take a little longer to ship as well. Stock valves and springs do a good job if you are staying under ~9000RPM I believe. All depends on what CDI you have. I have Big Gun (8500RPM), but if you have made a lot of modifications to your motor where it revs over 9000RPM, it wouldn't be a bad idea to get beefier springs, or titanium valves.

While you are inside your motor and have the head off, you could put in a JE 11.5:1 high compression piston. If you do this though, it would be best to send your cylinder out to Millennium Technologies with the new piston to have them re-coat the Nikasil in your cylinder to the size that the piston needs it to be, which will come back to you in size and honed for the rings. I made the mistake once to think it'd be okay as is. No. The piston had too much slop in the cylinder which allowed the rings to dig a hole through the Nikasil coating at TDC right down to the aluminum.

~$175 Piston and Rings
~$150 Millennium Technologies Cylinder Recoat
~$150-$200 CTRacing Valve Job (Or Local Engine Shops)
~$200 Total For 4 Valves
~$70 For Moose Racing Top End Gaskets
~$50 New Oil and Filter/Antifreeze
It tends to add up pretty quick.
2003 DS Baja         Riding at Bundy Hill and Silver Lake
Big Gun CDI, 11.5 JE Piston, Port/Polish, OMR Carb Mods,
Custom Mod End Cap, UNI Filter, More To Come?

 

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